Around Australia 04 - days 13-18

Portland to Adelaide via Kingston SE, Victor Harbor and Kangaroo Island


 
Day 13 - Monday, 12 April 2010

Well, we found another good motel in Portland (Admella Motel) at a very reasonable price, so decided to stay a couple of nights and take it easy. B. hasn't been able to sleep in because we have to be out by 10am, and he has become used to a sleep-in. I think also one becomes tired driving. Anyway, we spent Monday in our room, reading up on where to go next, B. fixed up the program that was causing a few problems sending things to you all, so he was happy. I ducked out to pick up a few things and get us a good old Sub for lunch.

Next day, we set off again, determined to stop a bit more and see things, and not to travel so far.

- J

Day 14 - Tuesday, 13 April 2010

This morning we visited the Portland Battery:

























It was built in 1889, because of pervasive fears of a Russian invasion!

We've reached the end of the Great Ocean Road, and reached the Vic-SA border.  Really beaut countryside, the little towns one drives through are very pretty with lots of lovely roses out, and all their deciduous trees turning beautifully gold and red.  The roses down here are absolutely stunning. Some of them are SO big and the colours seem to be more dense than we seem to get. Even the weeds are pretty -  the other day, outside the Garden of St Erth, growing on the footpath, there was the biggest scotch thistle flower I have ever seen. B. took a photo of it with my hand behind it to show how big it was.


We had decided to only go as far as Kingston SE (don't know what the SE stands for) in South Australia.  The countryside on the drive was incredibly flat, grazing land covered in cattle and sheep. Saw lots of dead kangaroos on the side of the road.  It must be awful to hit one.

We arrived in a little place called Millicent and drove around looking for somewhere to have lunch, had decided to try the local pub, parked opposite it and on the footpath was a sign for the little cafe we were parked in front of, saying 'Bacon and egg sandwich and coffee for only $6.95', so we changed our minds and went in.  Had the best bacon and egg sandwich ever, and the coffee was fantastic. When I asked B. how much he had paid, he told me he still hadn't paid for it, the bloke who served him as dashing in and out between the cafe we were in, and the one next door.  I think it must have been the most popular cafe in the place. B. went to pay, said 'I think I owe you some money' and the bloke said, 'Oh yeah, I often have to chase people down the street.' Talk about laid back!

Anyway, after Millicent, we were driving past lots of signs advertising cave trips and a local wind farm. Decided to visit one of the cavesTantanoola, which turned out to be very interesting.  To start with, they were advertising that it was the first wheelchair friendly cave in Oz, which made it easy to get to, and you could see the whole thing from just inside the door, which is where I stayed - don't really enjoy going into caves. Apparently, the cave was discovered by a kid in the 1930s when he was rabbiting and he put his ferret down what he thought was a hole in the ground and the ferret didn't come back, so he enlarged the hole and pushed himself down and fell into this incredible cave. If it was today, I imagine the kid would have sat up, looked around and said "Coooool!" 

































We got on the road and were about 45 kms out from Kingston SE, and our low fuel indicator began to blink, which reminded us we had been going to get petrol before we left Millicent and forgot to. Not knowing exactly how much further we could go after the blinking light came on, we phoned the good old RACQ who put us through to the RAASA. We told them approx. where we were, dropped our speed down to 70km/h and held our breath when the RAASA told us the nearest servo was actually in Kingston SE.So, thanks to our lovely Prius we actually made it to Kingston SE, topped our tank as full as possible and it turned out we still had 2 litres of petrol in the tank!

Anyway, we ended up at the very civilized hour of 4pm, arriving in Kingston SE, where we have spent the night at the Econo Lodge Motel. Now 8.10am, Bernard is still snoring, we haven't yet packed or decided where to go next, and have to be out of here by 10am, so I am stopping now.

- J

One of Kingston SE's main claims to fame is its Big Lobster

I still haven't had a good lobster meal. First, we left Tasmania the day before the lobster season opened. This time again, it was timing to blame. We had had our bacon and egg sandwich for lunch, and I could not cope with a lobster meal for dinner. One day...

PS: Kingston SE means Kingston South East, There is another one, called Kingston-on-the-Murray. Causes occasional confusion for those not in the know.

- B


Day 15 - Wednesday, 14 April 2010 (Happy Birthday, Gai!)

Today we drove to Victor Harbor (yes, there is no U in that name), and booked into our motel there, in readiness for our visit to Kangaroo Island tomorrow. we booked in early, for two days, because this place is beautiful, and we plan to spend time looking around before we leave. Meanwhile, I have spent this afternoon bringing this diary entry up to date.

- B

Day 16 - Thursday, 15 April 2010

We have booked in for a day trip to Kangaroo Island (the locals call it KI) tomorrow, starts at 07:30 in the morning, and returns at 09:30 in the evening. More about that after the trip, but the late return means we have also booked a third night at the Wintersun Motel in Victor Harbor. Meanwhile, we spent today having a look around Victor Harbor. It is a very pretty place. We started off with lunch at the Grosvenor Hotel, which was built in the early 1890s. I think the dining room still has its original solid wooden tables! Then we just drove around sight-seeing and taking pictures.

- B

Causeway from the Victor Harbor mainland to Granite Island, with horse-drawn tram
Horse-drawn tram on the causeway from Granite Island to the mainland at Victor Harbor
View from the lookout at Victor Harbor
Lookout at Victor Harbor, with aboriginal illustrations





































Day 17 - Friday, 16 April 2010

Today we were picked up at our motel by a little bus, which continued on to pick up one other couple, who turned out to be Germans out here visiting their back-packing daughter. Got to the car ferry at Cape Jervis, an hour later where there were about 150 people waiting to be taken to KI, where we were picked up by a large bus full of people of all nationalities. We had a family of Belgians, two Scottish girls, a group of Chinese people (three of whom lived in Sydney!), the two Germans and finally, the man in front of me turned out to be from Brisbane - and that's just the ones we talked to.


We had a lovely day, bouncing all over a huge island, saw a bay of seals - well, B. saw a bay of seals, I only saw one little one playing in the surf. The walk to the beach was too far for me to walk to, so I only went to the viewing platform and looked down.


The little seal is suckling from its mother while the seagull looks on










  
We had a lovely lunch at a KI bistro that I think must be used by the 4,500 odd islanders for big occasions, then went to a wild bird park, which is run by a relation of Steve Irwin, where they gave us all a talk about wild birds. The chap walked around us all with firstly a kestrel sitting on his arm, who kept flying off to a nearby tree and swooping back to him. He took the kestrel back to it's cage, and brought out a beautiful barn owl, who hopped from one person's knee to the next and let one pat it. Next where two very friendly kookaburras, and finally, an absolutely beautiful wedge-tailed eagle. Altogether, it was fun and a very interesting visit.

The barn owl

Rex, the wedge-tailed eagle

































































At 6.30pm, we arrived back at the ferry, after stopping at a few interesting sites, like one of the lighthouses and some fantastic rock formations (called Remarkable Rocks) on the way back.



Remarkable Rocks - that's what they are called!

After another 45 minute trip on the ferry, we were picked up by the same driver and delivered back to our motel, very tired, but happy, at 9.30.

- J

Day 18 - 17 April 2010

Today we drove to Adelaide (only about 80 km), found a motel - Scotty's Comfort Inn, and booked in for two nights. It's about 25 years since we visited Adelaide, and of course much has changed in that time. With the ambitious agenda we have set ourselves, we can only pick the eyes out of the many items we would like to have time to see. We are going to go through the options tonight, and our selections will be the subject of our next diary entry.

- B

Around Australia 03 - days 9-12

Bendigo to Portland via Airey's Inlet

 

 
Day 9 - Thursday, 08 April 2010

After our lunch with David yesterday, we drove on to Bendigo and finally got there at approx. 6pm - very tired!   The motel we had decided to stay in turned out to be booked out, but the Manager very obligingly phoned 6 other motels before finding us a vacancy at the City Centre Motel, a lovely 4 star motel, only $112 per night with everything we needed.  Because Bendigo appeared to be such an interesting town, we decided to stay for a couple of days so we could see more of the things that interested us.

- J

Day 10 - Friday, 09 April 2010

After a really good night's sleep, we first off drove down to the really lovely Visitor Information Centre in the middle of town, where they were very helpful and advised us on everything.  We were also taken with the great pottery they had on display, and ended up buying a terrific pottery plate made by Sue James, with hand painted native birds on it.

We then drove to the old Tram Depot, where we were able to go on a vintage "Talking Tram" trip from the southern end of the town, right up to the northern end of town, with all the interesting old historical sights being pointed out to us by the "Talking Tram".  We could have got off the tram at any of the points of interest along the way, and onto another tram if we had wanted to.  Apparently, in the 1970s, Bendigo decided to close down their tramway, in the same way that Brisbane did, but the townsfolk protested and presented a petition to keep the trams running, so they turned it into a tourist attraction - a very popular idea.  The trams are like Brisbane's old trams with the drop-centre, except that they now have electrically operating doors on them.


After our tram trip, we decided to go to the Bendigo Art Gallery, which Geoff had recommended to us.  We had a lovely meal at the Gallery Cafe, then Bernard went to the Gallery reception and got a free wheelchair for me which made it nice and easy to get around and be able to take our time.  Geoff was right - the Gallery is really terrific.  Funnily enough, one of the old paintings was a picture of a 1920s lady, who, except for the cigarette she was smoking, could have been my Mum back in the 1920s.  Another painting, a portrait of the man who started the Bendigo Pottery, amazingly, really reminded us of Geoff! So, after a really exhausting day, we arrived back at our beaut motel room to a lovely quiet cup of coffee.


 































At the Art Gallery shop, we found more of Sue James' work, and bought a bowl which matches the plate we bought earlier.

Tomorrow, we want to go to the Bendigo Pottery, then Bernard wants to go to the local Rivers outlet and get a pair of shoes.

- J

Day 11 - Saturday, 10 April 2010

Well, we went to the Bendigo Pottery,which was filled with really beautiful work.  The really interesting thing tho' was watching a mum & her about 12 year old daughter have a pot throwing lesson from one of the potters.  The daughter was just so much better at it than the mum. Both beginners. Bernard bought a beer mug from the shop. After the pottery, we went on to Rivers where B. bought 2 pairs of shoes. Then we headed south to Airey's Inlet, which we had been told by a lady was a very pretty place near the beginning of the Great Ocean Road. She was right. It took us a bit longer than expected - the weather has not been good since we hit the Vic border. In  fact, I think we broke their drought for them.

On the way to Airey's Inlet, Bernard suddenly slammed on the brakes, did a U-turn, and set off down a side street. He had seen a sign pointing to Garden of St Erth. As one side of his family comes from St Erth in Cornwall, he had to investigate. It turns out, that In 1854 Matthew Rogers, a Cornish stonemason, left Sydney in pursuit of gold discovered near Mount Blackwood in Victoria. In the 1860s he built a sandstone cottage, naming it ‘St Erth' after his birthplace in Cornwall. The cottage is now the home of a nursery and gardening club with a beautiful garden in the grounds, hence the name (http://www.diggers.com.au/gardenStErth.shtml).

- J

Day 12 - Sunday, 11 April 2010

The motel where we stayed at Airey's Inlet has two monuments near the entrance. The first is to the builder of the Split Point Lighthouse:


































and the second is to honour the memory of those immigrants who have lost their lives at sea, while coming to settle in Australia. This monument was erected in 1991. How attitudes have changed for the meaner in such a short time!
 

Part of the latter is a list of the ships which have wrecked off the Victorian west coast, where more large ships have been wrecked than on any comparable stretch of the Australian coastline. You cannot read it, but look at the size of the list!

 
































The Great Ocean Road is certainly deserving of its great reputation as a tourist drawcard. The weather as we drove oscillated continuously between sunny and rainy, but one thing was constant - the wind. I have only experienced wind like that once before, at Whitley Bay on the north-east coast of England, heading into a North Sea gale. We had intended to visit the Twelve Apostles, of which there are now only eleven, thanks to the erosion which formed them, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:The_twelve_apostles_Victoria_Australia_2010.jpg), but the wind was so fierce that we were advised against taking a wheel chair (which Joce would have needed) out to the viewing platform.

The road to Portland is for the greater part of the time along the coast, and we were able to pull into a number of scenic lookout spots along the way.


























Towards the end of the road, we drove past the Pacific Hydro Wind Farm, dozens of wind turbines generating power for the local towns:

We found ourselves a motel for the night, and decided to stay for two nights, and have a lazy day tomorrow, to recharge our batteries before setting off for South Australia.

- J