Geraldton to Kununurra, via Kalbarri, Monkey Mia, Carnarvon, Onslow, Port Hedland, Broome, Fitzroy Crossing, Warmun
Day 40 - Sunday, 09 May 2010
Left Geraldton at about 9.30am as usual, and, as we had pre-booked into Billabong Roadhouse (just a little dot on the map, half way to Monkey Mia), and it wasn't very far to Billabong, we decided to do a side trip to Kalbarri, on Dave's recommendation.
On the way, driving past miles and miles of farmland which was fenced with square wire fences, we passed 5 dead foxes on the side of the road. We think the square wire is to stop the foxes getting to the farm animals.
Lovely countryside, with huge swathes of the lovely fluffy grasses and little yellow sunflowers on the side of the road for kilometres. We passed an old convict settlement where the roadside was covered in puffballs. These are a sort of seed pod, yellow coloured and about the size of a baseball. Just before Kalbarri, we passed a huge pink lake which is made pink by the betacarotene in it.
Got to Kalbarri which turned out to be a lovely little place. Dave had told us to check out the Pinnacles, but we would have had to go too far out of our way, and we had to get to Billabong because of the pre-booking. We ended up at Kalbarri, having a really beaut meal of fish in batter, and instead of chips, we had some yummy mashed potato that had been fried into little crumb covered balls. Picked up a pizza for tea, and some milk and veges and continued on to Billabong, through the Kalbarri National Park, where the road was lined with yet more lovely banksias, covered in beautiful, big, golden bottle-brushes.
We asked the bloke in the fish and chip shop at Kalbarri what the Billabong Roadhouse was like, and he gave us a funny look and said he hadn't seen it for some time. When we got there, we realized why he was so non-committal. I think it was even worse than Border Village. While it only cost us $90, Bernard thinks that was a bit much. When B. was booking us in, the bloke said that there was a telly in our room, with only one channel, B. asked what channel can we get, and he was told, "The one you get. That would be GWN." B. replied, 'You've just ruined our night, we wanted to see the first episode of Foyles War on the ABC." The bloke said, "Just for you, I'll change it."
When we got into our room, we found a tiny little TV, couldn't change the sound, luckily it WAS on the ABC, no fridge, no microwave, 2 very dippy beds, and a really manky bathroom, with a door that wouldn't shut. Not our best night.
- J
Day 41 - Monday, 10 May 2010
Very happily, we left early today, only had to drive a couple of hundred kms to get to Monkey Mia. There were some great views on the way here,
then we booked into Monkey Mia Resort, and found we had a lovely unit. The resort has two cafes and a restaurant, a pool and a spa for use of guests. We had lunch at one of the cafes, and are now looking at things to do tomorrow. Of course, first off, we want to see the feeding of the dolphins.
- J
Day 42 - Tuesday, 11 May 2010
We had been advised that the dolphins arrive to be fed at about 7:30am, and we were due to book out at 10:00am. So,we started the day at about 6:00am, had breakfast, and packed up the car so that we would be ready to leave as soon as we had watched the feeding. We arrived at the beach at about 7:15am, to find the beachfront already pretty crowded, and quite a few on the adjacent jetty. We decided to view proceedings from the jetty, and we got quite a good view from there. I must say that, while the thought of wild creatures coming in to be fed like that is wonderful, as a spectacle, this one does not compare well with the trained, performing dolphins at the Gold Coast, or the feeding of the rainbow lorikeets at the Currumbin Bird Sanctuary, which is a much more exciting occasion. The dolphins are not fed by members of the public, as I had expected, but by a small group of three or four staff, while the public stand and watch.
The whole process was over by about 7:45am, and we handed in our key, and left the resort before 8:00am.
The trip from Monkey Mia to Carnarvon (about 350km) kicked off with about 150km returning to the northern highway, along the World Heritage Drive, which is the name given to the road from the main northern highway to Monkey Mia. It is deserving of such a designation, as the sea views to both sides are quite stunning, so it is no hardship to travel the road again when leaving Monkey Mia.
Back on the main highway north, and we decided to stop for an ice cream at the Wooramel Roadhouse at morning tea time. However, we did not have an ice cream. The folk at Wooramel bake their own Danish pastries, pies, pasties and sausage rolls. So, we had a cup of coffee and a great Danish pastry each for morning tea. We recommend a stop at the Wooramel Roadhouse to anyone travelling this road.
We have now booked into the Best Western Hospitality Inn Carnarvon. We have stayed in a number of Best Western inns, and they are all of a high standard, but this time we have been given a deluxe room with a king size bed - very luxurious. We went out to lunch at the local Aboriginal Cultural and Heritage Centre. Joce could not bring herself to eat one of the creatures on our coat of arms, both of which are on the menu. She had a BLT burger, and I had a salmon and prawn pasta dish.
- B
After I had finished my lunch, which, while a BLT, also had a lovely indigenous berry sauce, I got talking to the bloke who was clearing the tables, and I mentioned to him I thought they should go out and herd up all the feral goats we saw along the highway. We saw about 10 or 11 groups of goats as we drove. He pointed out to me that I could have had baked goat with mashed potato. Darn! I didn't see that on the menu.
- J
Day 43 - Wednesday, 12 May 2010
After a very nice night, and being able to do our washing for free, we left today at about 9.30am, with a drive of about 441km ahead of us to Onslow. Because there appeared to only be 2 motels in Onslow, we decided to phone ahead and book in. The first one we tried was all booked out, and we only just got into where we now are, Onslow Mackerel Motel, after the receptionist managed to juggle the people she already had booked. We're in a really nice room, with 3 single beds, plus it turns out we get a complimentary breakfast. Mind you, it did cost us $190.
We then thought we should probably phone ahead to Port Hedland, just in case. Phoned the Visitors Centre, and the lady there gave me 4 different motels to phone. The first 3 were fully booked, and the one we finally booked into, Hamilton Motel, was $220 which has already been taken from our account, plus a non-refundable 'security deposit' of $40!! Apparently, Port Hedland's motels are fully booked by mining companies for their workers during the week, and they are all empty during week-ends. The motel we are booked into used to be owned by the mining company, and is still operated as a mining motel. We were told in no uncertain terms, that there were to be NO big trucks, and we had to back into our parking space. Tho' we do get breakfast, lunch and dinner for the $260.
The drive to Onslow was a bit boring - very like the Nullarbor again, except at about 150kms out of Onslow, suddenly a huge number of massive termite mounds appeared across the scenery, then suddenly we were also driving through all these mountains that just appeared out of the plain.
Then, just on the outskirts of Onslow, we passed one after the other of huge salt flats.
The lady at reception told B. that salt mining is a big industry here, but that is going to pale into insignificance by the gas production that is about to start here, and is going to add thousands of jobs when they start to build the plant. They've already started to dredge the harbour to accommodate it. Apparently the company that is running it all, has already pre-sold the gas to the Japanese. I said to B., did he think to ask what the name of the company is, as it might be a good investment, but he's forgotten. He'll have to ask again when we sign out tomorrow.
Tomorrow, we have a 505km drive ahead of us to Port Hedland, so tonight we're having an early night.
- J
Day 44 - Thursday, 13 May 2010
Today we decided to leave early, as we had a long drive ahead of us. Before leaving tho', we drove up to a lookout the receptionist had told B. about. It turned out to also be a memorial, but slightly different from all the rest.
Apparently, Onslow was also bombed by the Japanese during the war, and they had a special memorial for the Onslow Volunteer Regiment who were prepared to fight if the Japanese should land.
Then, as we were topping up with petrol before leaving, I remembered that the car seemed to be pulling a bit to the left, so B. checked the tyres and found that one of them was significantly lower than the others, so we drove to a tyre place just outside Onslow, and sure enough, there was a nail in it, which they repaired for us. Very friendly bloke who owned the business and a really hard working young Aboriginal bloke who did the work. The owner warned us that the drive north as far as Broome is a bit boring, and he wasn't wrong.
More long straight roads, with the usual low growing shrubs and grasses. This time there were quite a few cattle around, which accounted for the several dead ones on the side of the road. Just to relieve the boredom, every now and again, a big rocky mountain would sort of appear. We also saw about 4 eagles, gliding around on thermals above us.
This time, to save time, I had made B. a sandwich with the bread the motel had given us for brekkie, and we stopped at a roadhouse and bought me one, and a couple of drinks, which we sat in the car in the lovely air-conditioning and ate. Suddenly, it seems to have got a bit hot outside. We probably hadn't noticed it because of sitting in the car air-con.
Anyway, we finally arrived in Port Hedland at about 4pm, and the motel turned out to be quite lovely, except we were given a three page leaflet of rules and regs, the scariest one being that, 'Possession or use of firearms, or any dangerous or offensive weapons, flammable liquids or explosives, means instantly having our accommodation withdrawn immediately.'
Very comfortable rooms, with a beautiful bathroom/toilet/laundry, just right for a young bloke to live in during the week while working in the mine. If they want to have a 'friend' live with them, they have to first get permission from the Company. There are even rules for how they must dress before entering the dining room.
After unpacking, we went over to the dining room, which was a huge U shaped building. One arm of it would be approx.3 times the size of the library at Erin's school, and would seat at least a hundred people. In the wing we ate our dinner in, there would have only been about 20-30 there at any one time. Dinner is served strictly between 5 and 8, and is an all-you-can-eat buffet, with a large number of choices. We served ourselves a plate of roast pork, apple sauce, green beans, roast pumpkin, little roast potatoes in a cream sauce, then B. saw that they had a lovely lamb and tomato soup, so he just had to get himself a plate of that. A very quiet place, with not a lot of talking as most of the blokes were on their own, and very involved in eating huge plates of food. There was also a lovely choice of puffed pastries, cakes, biscuits, a hot rhubarb and apple pudding and custard, a choice of 8 flavours of ice-cream, a choice of about 5 different juices/cordials and tea and coffee.
Tomorrow, we have to get over there for breakfast which goes from 4.30 to 7.30! We are also able to get ourselves some takeaway lunch. I have decided that, if I were not already retired, I think I would like to be a miner.
It's a good thing we have to be up early for breakfast, as we have a 600 odd mile drive ahead of us to Broome tomorrow.
- J
Day 45 - Friday, 14 May 2010
Boy, was it a lovely breakfast! Well worth getting up early for, then, after we had finished eating our breakfast, we were able to go to another part of the huge restaurant, where there was another self-service counter with all sorts of cold meats, chicken, salmon, salads, fresh breads that we could take for our lunch.
Anyway, then with the long drive ahead, we decided to get petrol and find out if we could get new tyres in Broome. After getting a quote, we decided to just check to see if we could do better in Port Hedland before leaving, which we did, so that meant that our 'early start' started at 11am, complete with four new tyres.
As we already had our lunches, we decided to drive straight through to Broome, eating our lunch while we took turns at driving. The bloke in the tyre place had told us that it was a pretty boring drive and he wasn't wrong. About the only really interesting things we saw were quite a few eagles, our second live kangaroo (we have seen at least a hundred dead ones on the sides of the roads), then, late this arvo, just before turning onto the road to Broome, there ahead in the middle of the road where two little emu chicks, about 30-40cms tall. We came to a halt and tooted the horn and they split up, then went back into the middle of the road after we drove off.
Now we are in the Broome Motel, which we had booked from Port Hedland, through the Broome Visitors Centre. The booking was botched up a bit and we were first allotted a room, which we had to climb two flights of stairs to get into, then they kindly exchanged it for a family room for an extra $20. So, now for a good night's sleep, before we decide what to do tomorrow. We're now thinking of staying here for a couple of days and having a look around.
- J
Day 46 - Saturday, 15 May 2010
Well, I suspect we probably shouldn't have stayed in Broome, because we really went on a spending spree today. First off, we decided to go to the Visitor Centre to get some idea of where to go in Broome. As we walked in the door, we saw a pamphlet advertising flights to the Bungle Bungles for only $199 each. As the Bungle Bungle flight was Bernard's really-want-to-do-thing, we thought we would ask about it. From there, we ended up booking accommodation in Fitzroy Crossing, Turkey Creek Roadhouse and Kununurra, plus the flights - a total of a mere $890!! Then to cap it off, while checking out the old Chinatown in Broome, we came across a shoe store, and bought a pair of shoes each - total for shoes, $264.90. Oh, I forgot, we came upon a beauty shoppe, and I had the hairs on my face ripped out for only $20. Our bank account is considerable lighter, tho' we have paid for three nights accommodation in advance.
- J
We had lunch today at Kool Spot, where Joce had a hamburger, and I had pancakes with ginger and star anise with yoghurt. Fantastic flavour combo! While we were there the heavens opened up, and we had a downpour which had the locals shaking their heads in surprise. It seems the dry has broken. There are lots of boab trees here. I think they are the same as the ones in Anzac Square in Brisbane, which we always called 'bottle' trees.
- B
Left a bit earlier than usual because we had quite a drive to get to Fitzroy Crossing for the night. The scenery has been getting better and better, except for the rain. Every now and again, a huge, rocky outcrop suddenly appears out of the plain, usually the rocks are beautifully coloured, ranging from cream to dark red.
J.
Day 47 - Sunday, 16 May 2010
Stayed the night at Fitzroy Crossing, in the Crossing Inn, "on the banks of the mighty Fitzroy". Our room had a balcony overlooking the river, but sadly thanks to a prolonged dry, - and notwithstanding the continuation of yesterday's rain - the river is a series of billabongs at the moment. Even so, the view from the balcony is still very special.
- B
Bernard neglected to say that we expected our room to be fairly basic, but it turned out to be really very nice. It had been lined with timber on the top half of the walls and the ceiling, and the bottom half was covered in cream coloured corrugated iron. Timber floor, and a beautiful hand made timber bedside table about a bit over 1 metre long, with an inlaid glass top. The bedspreads were very lovely modern patterns in dark blue, red, yellow and black. A quite spacious bathroom/toilet. The only drawback was that we couldn't put up the computer, and there was no space for our microwave, so we had to have coffee made on water. As B. said, the balcony view was very special. I sat there and had my breakfast and watched the birdlife.
- J
Day 48 - Monday, 17 May 2010
Today, we drove to Warmun, to stay at Turkey Creek Roadhouse. The views along the way are well worth the trip. This stopover was dictated by the availability of a cheap filght over the Bungle Bungles.
However, as we drove, we received a call from the company responsible for the flight, to say that the flight was cancelled due to the bad weather. (There is no prospect at this stage of any improvement before next Saturday, so even changing our flight to Kununurra on Wednesday is not an option. It looks as if the Bungle Bungles are off the agenda.
Jocelyn says, "NO, IT'S NOT!" Even if we have to stay somewhere for a few more days.
- B
Day 49 - Tuesday, 18 May 2010
Before leaving the Turkey Creek Roadhouse at Warmun, we photographed the rock paintings on the rocks surrounding the parking lot. not what you first think of when you hear of Aboriginal rock paintings, a number of large rocks with relatively recent paintings.
The road to Kununurra is flanked by mountains for almost the whole way. In the end, we had to stop taking pictures, or we'd never have made it into Kununurra.
- B
